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[This
historic document, by Mrs. Ella Roper Landers, includes
a summary in the form of a
letter, followed by the full trip report.]
Bakersfield,
Cal.
Aug 17, 1883
My
Dear Ones,
As I have just an hour to spare I’ll try to give you a
short sketch of our trip.
(Let me hug you all around first & say I am
so happy because you’re so happy I’m happy that you
are coming down and that I didn’t have to tease much
for my “Chug um whirl” (camp language for “Little
Girl”). It
was a dark spring morning (in July) when we started (at
3 o’clock) & it was sundown when we arrived at Mr.
Carvers. I
have written you of the country dance - the trip to the
meadows & more or less of the meadows.
We staid there ten days camping mainly in
“Tobias” partly at “Alec’s camp.” We explored
the whole country round under “Weller’s”
leadership. We
were roasted one night by the boys, we had concerts, we
gave the boys a big dinner with four courses &
button bole bouquets.
I made a flag & presented it & after the
boys had worked an hour to hoist it Willie discovered
that the “J” was turned the wrong way – Thuswise
Sketch. Finally
Jeff Carver (jolly young chap attended school in S. Jose
3 yrs & knows all our friends there Toss.) and Sam
Allen came up all ready to start for Whitney.
Our party in the meadows had varied from 8 to 12
but now Willie wasn’t able to go & we numbered 6
as we started over the grades took 3 packs.
Sketch.
We were several days going to the lake & camped in
beautiful green meadows all the way.
The lake is 100 miles from Glennville & is on
Kern River - it was caused by a great landslide which
blocked up the river & left a narrow channel for its
egress. It
is a mile long shut in among the hills like the Swiss
lakes. Is
only 35 miles from Lone Pine & the German fisherman
said that Jo Thomson was coming over the following week
- just missed him.
There were four boats (dugouts) on the lake &
had some fine rides.
Pushed on to Whitney creek & found Mr.
Vrooman & Louis Chittenden.
They joined me with a friend & we went
farther up & stopped to fish.
Golden Trout - lovelier than gold
fish with red splashes on their sides - hundreds of
them. We
all fished – I caught a dozen - they’d bite at
anything - Jack caught 20 with a bare hook.
Jonnie threw one out into the meadow a hundred
ft. & hit Jerusalem in the eye.
Tore ourselves away & one day towards evening
when we were walking to keep warm & had on the boys
coats, there came a great shout “The lake - the
picture in Harpors”, & Yawoo (or Jeff) fired off
his rifle & there was joy in camp.
We camped there & found fine feed for the
horses. Next
morning climbed a peak supposing it was Whitney. Surveyors had made same mistake & had named it “Duels
Peak.” Walked 12 miles that day.
I nearly fainted going up - change in altitude.
Tried Whitney again next day.
Louis & Mr. V. went home - friend sick. Jennie got sick & Jeff & Jack went exploring, Sam
& I brought up the horses & packs to the very
edge of the timber line.
The, boys came home at night tired out - had been
on a high mt., from which they could see the
monument on Whitney.
Next morn, we started at four with our lunch in
knapsacks. At
ten could see Whitney - ate some lunch.
Walked & walked - over rocks - great
boulders, around precipices, bordering on little lakes
(saw 20 in all) & finally gave out, Jeff & Sam
were ahead prospecting, Jack & Charlie, Jennie &
I all lay down in the blistering sun & slept for
half an hour - a sleep of exhaustion.
Then Jeff yelled to Sam & Sam yelled to us -
from peak to peak “Mt. Whitney wood & water - come
on” & we saw a figure in the dim distance waving a
flag wildly from a rocky peak.
This put new life into us.
Had been eating snow & our throats were
parched. Reached
the top finally. Read
all the papers & made copies.
Saw the stand for mounting telescope, etc.
Rested an hour & lunched - found delicious
melted snow water & some wood which bad been carried
up. Could
see Lone Pine, Independence & Owens Lake on one
side, & Tulare & Fresno on the other.
The view was grand - but we were so tired.
The blood looked like it might come through our
finger tips, there was a sense of fullness in the ears
& everyone seemed to be talking from the foot of a
long hill. This
was our longest rest all day.
The boys asked if we could go back, Jennie said
“yes” - I said I would try.
Down hill it was easy enough but when it came to
climbing again, when the sun went down & we were
scaling along the precipices on the lakes then we had to
be dragged.
Jeff & Charlie had gone ahead & built a
great fire which we could see for miles. Sam & Jack said they would give any sum of money or any
number of years if they only had the “chug um
whirls” safe in camp.
Finally, at ten o’clock we reached camp.
I had been too dizzy to stand alone a moment for miles.
We had walked 20 miles that day - think of it.
But we had done what every one had said we
couldn’t do & we were happy.
But we were anxious to get out of there &
camped on Whitney creek that night. After that we camped three nights (in different places) on
Kern River - I forgot the lake - camped there first -
fine time. Good
fishing but bad places to get out of.
One morning It took the boys 5 hours
to get the horses up 300 ft.
Got down there by accident every time.
Tore my suit to tatters - had to rig up a bathing
suit & wear it.
All the shoes in the crowd were in pieces.
Reached the meadows with a pan full of flour -
some salt & three slices of bacon & nothing
else. Geo.
Price was there & he & Neut. Allen fired us a
salute of 25 shots & gave us a fine dinner - how
we did eat. They
had three hammocks hung up in a triangle & a sign up
which read: (Camp Hammock - Rest for the Weary) and lo!
the “a’s” were turned the wrong way. We were treated like queens (J & I) & not allowed to
do a single thing.
The boys say they’ll warrant us to go around
the world without a murmur for we were the best natured
party. I’ll
tell you some of the funny things in my
next. Toss,
is Bessie home yet? Give her & all my friends
especially Mrs. R. - love.
Be good and success to you.
Yours
lovingly,
Lell
A
TRIP TO THE TOP OF MT. WHITNEY IN 1883
by
Mrs. Ella Roper Landers
I
think it is as well to pass over the events of the first
day lightly. There
is nothing particularly enlivening in that story of sand
and sagebrush, intense heat and lame horses, parching
thirst and dried up sponges.
However, after leading Hobble, the “snide”
horse, for some distance, and putting him out to pasture
till our return, the home of Mr. Carver, beyond
Glenville, was finally reached.
Here we were greeted by jolly friends and after a
hurried camp supper, went to the house for the evening.
Maybe “Yep” and “Nope’ (so called because
of their substituting those musical words for Yes and
No), didn’t feel queer in their bloomer costumes when
they got among the other girls.
It was agreed to spend the following day at the same
place. A
ride to Glenville on horseback was on the programme for
the afternoon, and on the road a lively debate was
indulged in, to-wit: namely, Resolved, “that it is a
noble act to live, when by so doing you can save
friend’s life”. tie
vote. In
the evening a few friends, the family and the campers,
indulged in a decidedly informal little dance.
A jolly, but eccentric old uncle was persuaded to
play the violin and was helped out on the piano by
divers young people of the party.
Some of the “calls” of the quadrilles are
worth recording.
The next morning the horses were saddled and the burro
who was affectionately called Jerusalem, was packed till
he groaned piteously under the immense load.
The party was enriched by the addition of one
Samuel Allen, a pious young gentleman who never says
anything be doesn’t mean, and never does anything of
which he is ashamed.
He was dubbed by the girls, Samuel Weller,
on the spot.
The
road led trough beautiful mountain scenery and the train
filed along the winding ways, and presented quite an
imposing appearance.
Jerusalem’s pack insisted upon turning every
few miles, and the bays were cheered on in their labor
of repacking by the advice, “the main thing about a
pack is to have it balance”, which, sagely remarked
one of the party, applies to camping parties as well.
Deep
in the forest, two of the party went down the hillside
to carry some mail to an old woodsman, found him sitting
in a small enclosure, which surrounded a little log hut,
warming his feet, which were wrapped in clothes in lieu
of shoes, by a small fire.
He hewed his logs and lived his solitary life,
month after month, and upon being asked why be was
making a holiday of Saturday, said, “Why I thought it
was Sunday.”
Toward sundown the welcome and well remembered view of
the first meadow met our gaze.
The festive “Weller” (for short) now became
our host and welcomed us to his domain right royally.
A sheep was slaughtered, the cows were brought up
and milked, and the campers lived on the fat of the
land, and slept on fragrant hemlock boughs, until long
after “five o’clock in the morning.”
Next day camp was moved from a steep grade to another
pretty little meadow.
The green grass, the tall pines and the beautiful
flowers were duly “raved” over, and, as several days
were spent in this camp, and horseback excursions were
taken to the numerous meadows, and hills daily the
“raving” increased.
One night Weller tried to sleep in the hammock, was too
cold to sleep and took his revenge by serenading the
girls half the night.
One
day they all rode off to salt the cattle and Nope
succeeded in getting the “call” to perfection.
Now they gathered round the camp fire and made
the hills resound with “Upidee” and “Golden
Slippers,” and anon Nope stirred up the echoes with
the plaintive “Famine from Hiawatha.” Finally
Weller’s mother and brother Newt (“The Whaup”, Yep
and Nope called him) came up and the O.B.J.’s moved
camp back to the ice cold waters of the Tobias, to bear
them company. Weller
took his departure for Glenville that day and was
charged with endless commissions - new shoes, (the kid
boots had lasted just one week) needles, pins, quinine
for the “B.B.” arid “Pop” (as they had fallen
victim to the B’k’sf’ld Fever) and divers other
things. The
girls did their washing and the camp in general
“jabbered” in Spanish.
In the afternoon all hands went out for a ride,
and Dutch’s exploits in climbing rocks with Jerusalem
were only excelled by the “Whaup” and “Nope” who
jumped logs and ran down hill till an aged Spaniard at
the foot exclaimed, “Este Seniorita buena Vanquero!”
Of course no one was to blame, but that night the girls
would not move and the boys built the fire closer and
higher, and finally had to drag them away to save the
comfort, and the smoking girls from being burned.
Bright
and early the B.B and the Whaup with favors from the
girls in their hats, and a parting blessing in the shape
of old shoes thrown after them departed for the river to
ruthlessly slay a wild cow, expecting to be gone all
night. Dutch
and Pop started on an all day’s fishing excursion, and
the girls flattered themselves that they would have a
long, quiet day, - they would read - they would sew -
they would write the journal clear un to date.
But, alas, for all such dreams, - about eleven
o’clock came riding up Weller, Mr. Jeff Carver, a
truthful arid sedate young chap whom we will introduce
by his camp name of “Yawoo”, with a friend of theirs
and demanded dinner at the point of the bayonet as it
were. And,
lo! very soon the B.B. and the Whaup, who had heard of
the arrival of the other boys came poking back and the
Mr. Alex Carver joined the crowd and the quiet day was
“N.G.” Now
the girls had manufactured a flag, fearfully and
wonderfully put together from a red bandanna
handkerchief, some blue silesia and red ribbon They now
commanded that it be hoisted on the flag staff in front
of the cabin. After
due speechifying, much hauling and hallooing the flag
floated proudly in the breeze and the O.B.J.’s stood
afar off and gazed at their handiwork Their enthusiasm
was somewhat dampened when Pop discovered that the
“J” was turned the wrong way, and the boys insisted
ever afterwards, on calling them the “O.B.
Fishhooks.” Next
morning very early Weller and Yawoo departed for
Glenville to get their outfit ready for the trip to
Whitney, which was the end and aim of all the O.B.J.’s
wanderings. The
day was spent in camp making preparations for the
journey and drawing up rules and regulations for the
“happy family.”
The rules ran thusly:-
Every member must read a poem in July number of
“Century” in which it is explained that “Chug um
whirl” means “its a girl,” - in camp phrase - “A
little girl,” - that “Clack whang bog loud” means
“It must be drowned,” and that “Clack whang bo
quid,” stands for “It must be did”. Also decided that “Chug um whoy” means, “Little boy,”
and “Clack bang bo quid” was a more expressive way
of wording the thought “It can’t be did.”
That night the boys returned arrayed in nobby
blue flannel shirts - the uniform adopted by B.B., Dutch
and Pop on leaving home.
The entire party was up betimes in the morning.
After
bidding Mrs. Allen adieu the O.B.J.’s, escorted by the
Whaup and Chronic began their march.
Poor little Pop was threatened with fever, and
when “Dirty Camp” (so called, the boys explained,
from a sometime occupant who didn’t wash his face nor
hands, nor change his clothes for a year) was reached,
and the escort turned their faces homeward he
accompanied them to the meadows where they kindly
promised the best of care. The rest traveled merrily on, now through beautiful little
meadows, now up a steep grade and now down – down -
down again, camped at noon - tiniest little green meadow
- after a short rest the march was resumed.
The trail wound round the sides of the mountains and the
O.B.J.’s yelled with exceeding joy as view after view
burst on their eager sight.
Yep and Nope were finally reduced to the
necessity of calling everything – O-h-!!!!, for all
the fitting adjectives in their vocabulary had been
exhausted. The
objective point for that night was Dry Meadows, ‘twas
reached early in the evening and while Yawoo and Weller
posted off, the rest of the party moved forward and
pitched camp on a grassy point near a grove of willows,
where the tuneful voice of the mosquito was heard in the
“wee sma” hours of night.
The hunters returned at supper time empty handed.
Appetites had grown to gigantic size already, but
were finally satisfied and all gathered round the fire.
The B.B. and Yawoo told wonderful tales of the
time when they were the “Bontons” of Glenville.
Before the evening ended the chug um whirls found
themselves in some unaccountable way, tied down before
the fire and heard the B.B. and Yawoo yelling into their
ears with might and main, those poetic words - “Way
over yonder these old bones gwine to rise again.”
Next
morning every one was astir and breakfast ready by
sunrise. That
sunrise is worthy of notice.
To the east of camp rose a tall mountain peak
entirely set off from all the surrounding hills and
standing like a huge sentinel, keeping watch o’er our
little company. The
sun could be seen all around us but did not reach the
camp, until it had climbed to the utmost top of the
peak.
The trail led through a sheep or cattle camp the owners
of which were not at home.
A quantity of “jerky’ was hanging on lines
and in some mysterious way the O.B.J.’s became
possessed of a bag of it and thereafter reveled in
“jerky” stew, or chowder, as the boys insisted on
calling it. The
face of the country was much the same as on the
preceding day. The
raving increased. Deer
tracks were frequently seen and followed by the boys,
but all to no purpose, nothing was slain.
About noon the Dome and Needle rocks were passed.
Lunch was eaten near the summit of a “lomas
alto” and after giving the horses a short rest, the
party travelled on for an hour or two, when they came to
a little grove of quivering aspens nestled at the foot
of a high mountain with the clearest little stream
running through. The
beauty of the spot captivated the “Chug um whoys” as
well as the more susceptible “Chug um whirls, and
packs were taken off at once.
The afternoon was spent with some washing,
reading, sewing, cooking, writing in the journal and an
unlimited amount of talking..
Dutch, who had constituted himself fireman, built
a wigwam of dry sticks and just at dark set fire to it.
The aspen trees brightened and trembled under the
glare, until there was more raving, and when some aspen
branches were thrown on the blaze, and the leaves
changing their color to a golden brown, were all carried
upward (not one sank into the ashes), still quivering on
the breeze, it was said in a low voice “those little
leaves seem like spirits trying to soar toward
heaven.” A
free show by the boys was on the ticket for the evening.
Yep and Nope sat in state on the comfort and
cheered lustily as each actor performed acme wonderful
feat. All
were tired at last and as they rested around the fire,
which had smouldered low, it was noticed that the stars
burned with intense brilliancy and seemed bending down
near and nearer to meet the happy little company, who
sang, “Good night ladies” and, then betook
themselves to their respective couches to dream of distant
Whitney. The
following morning, the usual early start was made and a
Mr. Simmonds joined the party and promised his escort to
Trout Meadows, so called doubtless from the trout, that,
in bygone days had haunted the stream, for very few are
there now. The
B.B. and Dutch interviewed the stranger on ahead.
Weller and Yawoo saw a deer and without a word of
warning were off in pursuit, so that all at once Yep and
Nope found themselves alone with the three pack horses,
coming down the back bone of a ridge, out of sight or
call of anyone. Then
those wicked girls waxed wroth and while Nope led the
train Yep prodded the packs on from behind and made them
trot up hill and down, heedless whether the packs turned
or not. The
frying pans flopped wildly in the breeze, the “Chug um
whirls” laughed merrily while the coffee pot and water
bucket danced a jig upon poor Jerusalem, until the
former articles rolled off on the hillside, and because
that coffee pot happened to contain the “black
bottle” and Yep was found in convulsions of laughter
holding it in her hand, by the deer hunters, who,
inopportunely rode up at the moment, they ever after
cast out unkind insinuations about that same black
bottle. Camped
at night in Trout Meadows, ground a little wet and soggy
and more mosquitoes.
The boys reported a nice old school teacher down
at the other camp, so Yep and Weller started off bright
and early next morning to get some milk for the coffee
and interview the old gentlemen, by name Mr. Merrill.
He informed that he spent every summer up among
“these sheep and cattle men” who (so he said) were
glad to have him stay with them just for company.
And indeed he was a pleasant old chap.
He told then all about Whitney, gave them many
directions as to the route to be pursued, among others
the one to take on their return by way of Little Kern, -
and of this, more anon.
For there came a day when the maledictions of the
O.B.J.’s - but we anticipate.
Leaving some extra provisions in charge of the
newly formed acquaintances, another day’s journey was
begun, over a steep and rugged trail; such as all must
be that approach the Kern River Canon.
Toward noon the campers concluded to take a walk
for their health and the horses wore driven riderless
over the slippery paths.
Through the underbrush along the bed of a creek,
but always down - down they rode, until suddenly they
found themselves among the boulders by the banks of the
rivers. Quickly
were the horses relieved of their burdens.
Grasshoppers and anterugiuns captured and all
hands started fishing, the boys promising to initiate
the girls into the mysteries thereof.
But without avail, - Nope caught one sucker, Yen
caught nothing - while the boys brought in hosts of
speckled beauties. After dinner, Dutch returned to the river determined to get
even with Yawoo, who had made the biggest haul, the
girls donned bathing suits and braved the ice cold water
of the river while the boys made a hair rope As evening
drew near everyone went fishing again.
The boys were successful as usual, but Yep and
Nope were found on a slippery rocky with one pole
between them, fishing with a hook, that had but one
prong, which was baited with one leg of a grasshopper.
Weller laughed long and loud when he discovered
the fact and talked in “Spoopendyke” fashion.
But the girls had their revenge, for, returning
from his tour of investigation he fell from the slippery
rooks into the river.
All soon returned to camp; the boys bearing their
treasures and exhibiting them in triumph.
“You boys” quoth Nope “rave as much over
your fish as we do over the scenery.”
However they could all eat, and that night, when
the fish and raspberries, which the girls had discovered
and gathered as a surprise, were disposed of, everybody
was too tired to get up until after a long rest, and
when in time all sought their soft and downy couches and
invoked “Come sleep, gentle sleep, natures soft
nurse” the voices of Weller and Yawoo rose upon the
still night airs. They
sang, they preached, they prayed, and finally, after
long hours their listeners, with sighs of relief, heard
the benediction followed by “Turn over” and then all
was silent. It
was only half past three in the morning, when patter
fell the rain on the uncovered heads.
Capt. Weller started a fire and demanded that
everyone “get up” and everybody did so but the B.B.,
who drew the cover over his head and refused to be
comforted. The
shower lasted only a few moments, but an early breakfast
was the result of it, then everyone was anxious to be
“marching along” to the lake.
After dinner the previous day, the question had
been raised, “whether they should go on to the lake,
or stay by the river and fish?” The B.B. had no
opinion - Yawoo had, no opinion - Weller had no opinion,
so these chivalrous chaps said with one accord
“We’ll leave it to the “Chug um whirls” to
decide.” The “chug um whirls” were highly
flattered and would go on to the lake please.
The boys left - it was supposed in search of the
horses - and were back in five minutes to coolly
announce, that, for reasons which they recounted at
length, they had decided to stay by the river.
They, now, however, professed themselves ready to
advance. The trail led for some time along the river.
Steep bluffs rose on either side, and now and
again a beautiful little cascade was seen leaping down
the mountain side.
The girls stayed behind to rave, so not to annoy
the boys, and when they rode up they heard loud
exclamations, such as “Oh –h-h-h.” “How
grand”, “Oh how lovely” and there stood the
“Chug um whoys” with uncovered heads gazing at a
small round atone in the road.
Travelling onward, soon a beautiful little lake, shining
out from a fresh green meadow, met their gaze.
This was probably half a mile across, and far on
the other aide, a dark object, which seemed to move from
time to time, appeared.
“It is - I know it is a bear,” quoth Yawoo,
and the report of a rifle resounded among the hills.
The bullet was sped with unerring aim and hit - a
stump. The
last parting backward glance had no sooner been taken of
this little gem of a lake, before from the top of the
ridge, another and larger lake could be seen.
A steep grade led down to edge of this, were four
“dug outs” were anchored to the shore.
Promising themselves a boat ride in the sweet bye
and bye, the O.B.J.’s rode on and struck camp a mile
farther on, under the pines on the hillside.
“Out of sight of the lake”, moaned the
“Chug um whirls”. The beans and dried peaches were cooking finely, when Weller
returned to ask if Nope and Yep did not want to move
camp down on the river to a fine place - big
boats - plenty of wood - and so forth and so on.
Remembering the experience of the day before they
promptly answered with one voice, “We have no opinion,
thank you.” Left
to his own sweet will, Weller at once began to pack
Jerusalem and Romeo with all the goods and chattels.
Cloaks, kettles, buckets, beans, peaches etc.
were carried in the hands of Yep, Nope and Weller
down a short distance to where Kern River rippled over
the rooks. ‘Twas
indeed a more pleasant camping pound but those deeply
injured “Chug um whirls” would not be soothed and
demanded to have the boats produced.
Weller silently pointed to the shore, and the
girls went for his hair.
They were two immense boots!!
Suddenly the sky became overcast, low peals of thunder
were heard and all went busily to work stretching a tent
for shelter from the storm - which never came.
The fishermen cane back with few fish, and the
opinion that the lake was a “snide”. After dinner all hands went for a boat ride, which greatly
made up for the lack of fish.
The “dug outs” wore clumsy contrivances,
carrying only two and propelled by means of two short
wide paddles. Dutch
and Nope rowed - or paddled out ahead, Yep and Weller
followed, and Yawoo and B.B. brought up the rear.
The occupants of the rear boat soon grew tired of
“pulling hard against the stream”, so pulling off
their heavy blue outside shirts, they hoisted them as
sails in the vain hope of lightening their labor, It
proved to be as hard to hold us the two poles which
served as masts, as it was to wield the paddles. When at last faces were turned campwards an exciting race
tried the strength and endurance of the party.
Yawoo and B.B. were victorious.
There was a division in camp next morning. The B.B. wanted to fish, Nope and Yawoo longed to stand on
the dizzy peak just across the river, while Weller and
Yep pined for another boat ride.
All went their separate ways.
Nope and Yawoo did climb to the height of which
the old fisherman had said “Why, no deer in the
country could scale it.” Yep and Weller came back from
their ride in time to go to the relief of Nope and Yawoo,
whose horse had deserted them while they were climbing
and had recrossed the river.
The B.B. and Dutch caught a few fish and all had
tremendous appetites for the fish chowder or “stew”
as the boys would call it.
Yep made a jelly cake, which, though the layers
were rather thick and tough, was pronounced unanimously,
“The best cake ever tasted.” After dinner it
was decided to go on to Whitney Creek.
Rode
past the fisherman’s house, and sister, a pleasant
German girl, surprised the party with thread and needles
(for they had lost theirs) while the boys busied
themselves shooing the horses.
Forded
the river just below the house and then straightway been
to climb up-up-up, until evening.
Just as all were looking for a spot on which to
pitch camp, a horseman appeared.
It proved to be Louis Chittenden, one of the
Sumner boys. After
mutual shouts of joy and much hands-shaking Louis led
the way to a little meadow near their own camp, and
packs were off and supper on in double quick time.
The
girls were sitting working at something that brought Hoods
“Stitch, stitch, stitch, in poverty, hunger, in
dirt,” to memory when they were again upset by seeing
Mr. Vrooman, (another old friend) in all the glory of a
flaming rod shirt, and, (almost flaming red) whiskers
all over his face, ride up. More handshaking and an invitation by the “O.B.J.’s” to
“Grub Destroyers” to aid them in destroying
some that night. A
Mr. Carden was of the other party also, and soon all
were gathered round the camp fire of the “O.B.J’s”
watching the preparations for supper, which was highly
enjoyed, being seasoned with a little more laughter and
fun than usual, if that were possible.
Good night was said early, as all were tired.
“The Grub destroyers” concluded next morning
to join the party bound for Whitney, and soon all were
ready to begin the march.
Passed by the Natural Bridge and followed a
beautiful little stream called Whitney Creek for a
number of miles. The
little golden trout that could be seen sporting in the
clear water were too enticing to be resisted by Yawoo
and B.B. - who lagged behind in order to capture some.
After losing the trail, having the pack turned
and various other little diversions, camp was struck for
dinner near the same little stream.
B.B. and Yawoo empty handed, rode up at the
moment, and all hands with the exception of Weller and
Yawoo who promised to stay in camp and prepare dinner,
armed with fishing rods, went fishing.
After some time Yep was informed that dinner was
all ready. Going
up to camp, found a coffee pot full of hot water - only
that and nothing more.
Yawoo wandered up and down the creek and came
back loaded with fish, that had been caught by different
ones, and those three ate forty fish, and
the rest coming in soon after, brought the number up to
one hundred. After
such feasting, all were in fine trim for the
afternoon’s ride.
Weller was in such ecstasy, that at sight of a
barren hill covered with rocks, he began –
“Oh-h-h-how grand! How perfectly, awfully sublime!”
wrung his hands and finally rolled on the ground with
his feet and hands still working convulsively, while
“Oh-h-h-h” still issued from his mouth.
It grew colder as evening drew near and the B.B.
insisted on the girls putting on his coat and vest for
warmth. Something,
besides, was necessary for comfort so the Chug um whirls
entertained the boys with an original song of Whitney of
which the chorus ran thusly –
“O
dim distant Whitney, O dim distant Whitney,
Distant Whitney we’re going to climb, because we are
so brave
O
dim distant Whitney, O dim distant Whitney,
Distant Whitney we’re gwine to climb and that You’d
better behave.”
Just at nightfall a beautiful little lake was seen
nestled at the foot of a high mountain, which it was at
once declared was Whitney itself.
A ride of a few moments down a steep trail and
the borders of the lake were reached.
A fire made a thawing process gone through. Early next morning, it was decided to climb the mountain.
Lunch was carried by the boys in bags strapped to
their waists. After
steady climbing until noon, the top ‘was reached, but
alas! alas! they sadly read in some papers left there by
some surveyors, who had likewise been disappointed, that
this was “Duels Peak” and Whitney was 14 miles
further on. However,
there was nothing to do but to eat lunch and tramp back
to camp. All
were nearly exhausted when the lake was reached, and
glad enough to rest their weary bones.
But suddenly some one exclaimed “Where is
Louis?” No
one knew, and after waiting in vain for a couple of
hours for him to appear all but Yawoo and the girls
started in quest of him, promising to fire the gun when
he was found, and Yawoo was to do the same if he should
come into camp before their return.
In an hour or so those searching were gladdened
by the report of the gun, bringing the welcome news of
his being in camp.
This occurrence, together with the fact of Mr.
Carden’s being sick that night caused Mr. Vrooman to
give up the notion of climbing any more mountains in the
hope of finding Whitney.
Therefore, next morning, when the O.B.J’s made
ready for another all day’s tramp, the “Grub
Destroyers” turned their faces South-Fork-wards,
bearing letters from the O.B.J’s to their friends at
home. It
was found that the horses could be used for the first
four or five miles.
On reaching a little lake at the foot of a
precipice, the horses were tied, and all began to
clamber briskly up the rocks.
At last Nope had the misfortune to remark that
she did not feel very strong and those fatherly boys
just put their foot down with the declaration that
“she should go no farther.” Yawoo and B.B. went on
to make sure that this peak was Whitney, while
Weller and Yep stayed with Nope.
(Dutch had remained in camp).
After a short rest they went back to a little
meadow on timber line.
Leaving Nope to doze the afternoon away, Weller
and Yep mounted their horses and rode back to move camp
up to this place. With a few little adventures, such as Button, Sam’s horse,
bucking him off on a steep hill side in a pile of rocks,
and Jerusalem refusing to cross a little stream, until
induced by something more than “moral persuasion”
camp was reached and supper ready by the time the two
explorers strayed in with tired hands and tired feet,
but still happy in the belief that they had found
Whitney.
Just at daybreak the following morning, the O.B.J’s
might have been seen starting gaily for “Dem distant
Whitney.” They marched merrily on, now singing
snatches of song, now quoting extracts from stirring
poems, now pausing a moment to drink at one of the many
little lakes or to snatch a handful of snow from some
snow bank, and now resting and trying to catch a breath
long enough to reach into the lungs.
By eleven o’clock the continual stepping on
rocks had grown somewhat monotonous, resting was more
frequent, and finally Yep had to lie down and rest
before the last hard climB. Yawoo had gone on ahead and
when his voice was heard bidding the others to pluck up
courage, for he had found proof of its being Whitney,
their falling strength seemed to revive and the summit
was gained in a short time by all.
But - oh, how tired they were, and as they
thought of the long ten miles over rocks that had to be
passed over, ere carp could be reached again, they
sighed “O, would I had the wings of a dove, that I
might fly away to camp.” Water was found in a basin in
a rock, and this with the lunch carried by the boys
refreshed them so much, that, after copying some papers
loft there by the Signal Service to serve as proof
positive of their being on the top, and picking up a few
pebbles as “souvenirs” they were ready to begin the
descent.
On they went, down - down, always on rocks ‘till it
grew to be perfect agony to move one foot after the
other and the “Chug um whirls” despaired of ever
getting into camp.
Yawoo and Dutch hurried on ahead to look after
the horses before dark, while the others came slowly,
resting often, then up again and on till forced to rest
some more. As
darkness came on the way grow more and more perilous, -
the girls had to be dragged up the rocks and swung down
over the precipices in a way that would have struck
terror into the heart of a looker-on.
Finally the light from the camp fire, which the
boys had built, was seen, and soon the poor tired party
cane straggling in with far different looks and feelings
than they had had in the morning.
Yawoo had tea and beans all read.
Appetites were soon satisfied and the whole crowd
wrapped in slumber before many minutes.
In the morning all felt somewhat rested and declared
they were glad they had gone to the top, but that nothing,
could induce them to do it again.
The grand object of the O.B.J.’s being
accomplished, faces were turned toward home. Provisions were running short and it was necessary to make
longer marches than on the up trip.
The same route was taken as far as Trout Meadows.
The spirits of the O.B.J.’s were soon up to the
natural pitch, and the Whitney climb seemed some
dreadful dream. Though
the days were spent in the saddle, the evenings were
always devoted to some jollification.
One evening Nope and Yep performed for the amusement of
the others. The
next, the camp was visited by the ideal shepherd, with a
crook, a flute and all.
He played, Yawoo and Yep danced the jig, the
other boys cleaned the fish, while Nope lay on a comfort
and played invalid.
When the lake was reached, the German girl (as they were
told by the one-armed peddler, Nope’s friend) wanted
to invite the O.B.J’s to supper, but was unable to put
the invitation into English, so they dined on bread and
bacon at their own camp.
On reaching Trout meadows they turned to the
left, in order to pass under the Dome Rock and Needles.
Mr. Merrill, the old chap at the camp, had given
full directions for this route.
They were followed the first day, and after
devious wanderings, the O.B.J.’s brought up at Kern
River. They
were followed the second day, and after climbing an
almost perpendicular side of a mountain, where the
horses tumbled backwards, and sideways, and saddles were
broken, and coffee pots bent, and then down another side
where the horses slid, rolled and cut their feet on the
sharp tones, the stopping place was Kern river again.
The third day and ditto with the added
misfortune of the B.B. being visited by one of his
“chilly” friends of B. Fourth day determined to
strike across regardless of directions.
Nearly all the morning was spent in getting the
horses out of Kern river canon. One of Yawoo’s horses fell onto a narrow ledge of rock,
just above a precipice and ‘twas thought it would have
to be shot, but at last, by means of ropes, blankets and
brush; it was released from its perilous position and
all were driven with bleeding knees and heads to the top
of the bluff, where the “Chug um whirls” who had
clambored on ahead were awaiting them.
Dry meadows near the old camping ground was
gained by the middle of the afternoon.
A friend of Weller gave the party some
“jerky” and that night they reveled in jerky stew,
dumplings and tortillas. The B.B. was too sick to enjoy anything.
Early next morning all were mounted, and attended
by a delegation of three from the other camp on their
way to Tobias. Their
escort left them soon, and on they rode, happy in the
thought that they were so near “home” as Tobias was
called. Within
a few miles of camp, Weller and Nope left the main party
and went around past Chronic’s cabin.
Meanwhile the others had reached Tobias, where
they were received with a salute of twenty-five shots,
by the Whaup, and Red Cloud, who had came up from B-
during the absence of the O.B.J.’s.
Chronic was there also.
In a few minutes dinner was ready for the
travellers, who did justice to the good things spread
before them. Nope
and Weller with three Glenvillerites, whom they had
picked up in their wanderings, made their appearance
shortly after. Red
Cloud had brought his hammock from B- and the three were
swung it the shape of a triangle in front of the cabin,
while the words “Camp Hammock, Rest for the weary”,
with the “a’s” all turned backward, to match the
girl’s “J” the boys declared, were painted on
shingle, tacked to the flag mast.
Such a cozy time they all had that evening,
swinging in the hammocks, until the chill evening air
warned them that a rousing camp fire would be a more
comfortable. It
was straightway built and a merry evening was spent.
The next morning all hands, with the exception of
the girls, the Whaup and B.B. left for Dunlap Meadows
promising to be back at three o’clock, at which time
those in camp were to have dinner ready.
The morning was spent washing hands, combing
hair, reading and snapping yarns.
Dinner was ready and the vacqueros back in camp
just in time. More
swinging in hammocks, and preparations made for spending
the last evening together in Tobias.
The evening was cold, so a bright fire was lit in
the huge fireplace in the cabin and all gathered before
it. The B.B.
who had not quite recovered from the effects of his
chill, took possession of the bed, Yawoo on the foot,
Weller stretched on a bench, and the others grouped
around on the floor.
“Consequences” were played.
“Gumbo” was attempted and proved a success
and about nine o’clock supper was eaten.
The O.B. Joyfuls ceased to be joyful about eleven
o’clock, and quiet reigned all round.
Weller, Yawoo and the Whaup were to go as far as the
Valley on the homeward way.
Chronic rode down as far as the bars, where with
many tears and much lamenting, the O.B.J.’s bade him
adieu and the last backward glance showed then the poor
boy leaning on the bars in the most dejected attitude,
and wearing the most forlorn expression possible.
The road that had seemed so long in the upward
march, now seemed only a few miles and Mr. Carver’s
was reached about one o’clock, where a hearty greeting
was given to the ragged company, and ‘the best dinner
they had ever eaten,” was set before them by Miss Lue.
Recitations and singing were indulged in until a
late hour, when all sought their respective couches, to
dream of all the good tines, past and future, ‘till
awakened by old Sol’s friendly face warning them
‘twas time to arise.
Breakfast was eaten in the house, the traps were
put into the wagon, many thanks were and adieu said to
the kind friends whose hospitality knew no bounds, and
the Whaup and the O.B.J.’s began the last day’s
journey. Made
a short call on Mrs. Allen.
Dutch and Red Cloud rode through the village to
get some things for lunch.
Willie and Nope rode through after them just for
a last spree, while the others cut across country
and met them about a mile below town, where the O.B
Joyfuls were doomed to separation.
They all felt “’tis sad to part, but Clack
whang bo quid,” so adieus were said over and over and
Weller, Yawoo and the Whaup went back, leaving the
others to pursue their journey homeward.
The boys declared they would not enter B- while daylight
lasted, so a stay of seven hours was made at
Whismond’s flat, in order to cross the plains after
sundown. All
rode horseback during the evening, taking it turn about,
but the B.B. whose honorable duty it was to check the
speed of the fiery steeds, harnessed to the
“chariot.” Wabble had been picked up on the road in
about the same condition as when left and came hobbling
after the wagon, led by whoever happened to be riding at
nine in the evening.
No further stop was made till Mr. Ropers was
reached. The
plan was to arouse him with a serenade.
The song selected was “golden slippers,” and
‘twas sung with such effect that he soon appeared at
the door to welcome home the prodigals.
Dutch and Yep being left, the musical band was
somewhat smaller when the Jameson mansion was reached.
Nevertheless “Dem Golden Slippers” rang out
until heads appeared at all points, and voices were herd
expressing thankfulness that all were home without any
broken bones.
Amen.
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